The malecón in La Paz is one of the most attractive in Mexico; a tranquil promenade overlooking small strips of sand with ravishing views of the mountains across the bay, it becomes the center of life at night, especially at weekends. The malecón gets particularly lively at the weekends, when locals and tourists mingle to trawl for snacks and drinks, plenty of live music and boozing to the early hours.

The Plaza Jardín Velasco, three blocks inland from the malecón on 5 de Mayo, stands as the city’s rather faded Main Square, presided over by the modest Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Paz; the striking twin-towered structure is open most days for a quick peek, though there’s little to see inside. It was completed in 1865 near the site of the old mission, but the towers were added in the 1920s.

Eco-tourism is by far the most important source of tourism income in La Paz as people come to enjoy its marine wonders, as well as its diverse and often unique terrestrial species endemic to the region. Tourists also visit the city's balnearios. There are some 900 islands and inlets in the Gulf of California with 244 now under UNESCO protection as World Heritage Bio-Reserves and the Isla Espíritu Santo group, which borders the northeast portion of the Bay of La Paz and are considered the crown jewels of the islands of the Gulf (also referred to as the Sea of Cortez/Mar de Cortes), the primary tourist destination of the area. Its diving, snorkeling, and kayaking are considered world class.

There are plenty of opportunities for fishing, diving and boat trips in the bay; go to the malecón opposite the Seven Crown Hotel to find people offering the latter the Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Espíritu Santo is a popular destination, comprising the main Isla Espíritu Santo and nearby Los Islotes, a small group of islands that hosts a colony of sea lions.

Beaches ring the bay all around La Paz, but the easiest to get to are undoubtedly those to the north, served by the local bus that runs along Obregón to the ferry terminal at Pichilingue. Decent ones are Playa del Tesoro, shortly before Pichilingue, and Playa Pichilingue, just beyond the ferry station. Both have simple facilities, including a restaurant.

Playa de Balandra, actually several beaches around a saltwater lagoon with eight shallow bays, most of which are no more than waist deep: five buses leave the bus station from 10am daily and traverse the beach route, taking you to Pichilingue and Balandra; the last bus back is at 5pm.

While sights are thin on the ground, eating is a real pleasure in La Paz – the seafood, especially, is excellent. The cheapest stalls lie inside the Mercado Municipal Francisco Madero – look for the “Area de Comedores” facing Revolución (at Degollado) for tacos. Just inside the market you’ll find Jugos Mary where fresh juices are. Most of the best places to eat and drink line the malecón or the streets immediately behind it. Locals also swear by the hot dog cart usually perched outside Carlos ’n’ Charlies.