Sierra Gorda, a remote and mountainous region where roads are winding and travel slow; much of the region is now protected within the Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra Gorda. Located in the heart of Mexico, the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve is a natural protected area that covers a third of Querétaro state. Its inhabitants include various species which are in danger of extinction, such as the jaguar, green macaws, and magnolias. It is the seventh largest Reserve in Mexico and the most diverse in terms of ecosystems. The Sierra Gorda Reserve fuses its cultural richness with the flora and fauna of its climates. Due to the 18 th century Franciscan missions which are a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, boasts natural wealth, the Sierra Gorda is considered the most ecosystem-diverse Biosphere Reserve in Mexico. Apart from Las Pozas, the region’s main attractions are the Sierra Gorda missions, five communities from the final phase of Mexico’s Christianization in the mid-eighteenth century. The missions were founded by Spanish Franciscan Frey Junípero Serra, who’ll be familiar to Californians once his work in Mexico was complete, he continued evangelizing in the new missions there. He spent nine years in the Sierra Gorda working with, and gaining the trust of, the indigenous people. It is this rare synthesis of missionary and native creative efforts that earned the district UNESCO World Heritage status in 2003.

You’ll need to set aside a couple of days to explore the hill country to the northeast of Querétaro, particularly if you’re headed for the wonderful tropical fantasy world of Las Pozas at Xilitla .The main route from Querétaro towards Xilitla is Hwy-120, picked up at the small town of Ezequiel Montes. From there it twists its way through the mountains, climbing a couple of passes. The only major town along the way is Jalpan, in the heart of the Sierra Gorda, 120km northeast of Querétaro. Now the largest of the missions, it is an attractive colonial place centred on its church. This was the first such church in the area and its Baroque facade became a template for the others to follow. On either side of its central panel are the Virgins of Pilar and Guadalupe, the patrons of Spain and Mexico.

Travelling through the Sierra Gorda is a joy in itself, but really doesn’t prepare you for the picturesque small town of Xilitla, sprawled over the eastern foothills some 320km northeast of Querétaro. Hemmed in by limestone cliffs, it’s set in a dramatic location, and at 600m, it’s warmer than the rest of the Bajío, with a lusher feel. There are tremendous views over the surrounding temperate rainforest, which is thick with waterfalls, birdlife and flowers, particularly wild orchids. It is mainly of interest as a place to relax, though you might devote a few minutes to admiring the beautifully preserved interior of the sixteenth-century Ex-Convento de San Agustín, which overlooks the central plaza, Jardín Hidalgo. The real justification for the lengthy journey to Xilitla is to visit Las Pozas (roughly 9am–6pm), some 2.5km east of town along a dirt road: head down Ocampo on the north side of the square, turn left and follow the signs. It is a pleasant walk downhill on the way there, or you can grab a taxi.

Having lived here since 1947, English eccentric Edward James spent the 1960s and 1970s creating a surreal jungle fantasy on the site, full of outlandish concrete statues and structures. Sprouting beside nine pools (“pozas”) of a cascading jungle river you’ll find a spiral staircase that winds up until it disappears to nothing, stone hands almost 2m high, thick columns with no purpose, a mosaic snake and buildings such as the “House With Three Stories That Might be Five” and “The House Destined To Be a Cinema”. Only one is in any sense liveable, a hideaway apartment four stores up where James spent much of his time.

In 2007, the Fondo Xilitla consortium bought the site for US$2.2 million, with the aim of turning it into a world-class attraction. For now at least you can see everything in an hour or so, but plan to spend the better part of a day here bathing in the pools and just chilling out; the restaurant is usually open Wed–Sun. You can also take a guided tour, which can be a good way to get to grips with what’s on display. Back in town, call at the Museo Edward James, behind the Posada El Castillo (nominally daily 10am–6pm), which showcases James’s life and particularly his work here. Photos of the construction are particularly worth perusing.

There are three main rivers in the Sierra Gorda, all of which are part of the Pánuco River basin. These are the Santa María River, the Extoraz or Peñamiller River and the Moctezuma River. All three pass through deep canyons and tend to form borders between the states and municipalities of the region. Santa María marks part of the border between Querétaro and San Luis Potosí, and the Moctezuma River marks part of the border between Querétaro and Hidalgo. The Tula and Moctezuma Rivers meet in the Sierra Gorda of Hidalgo. Here, the Moctezuma River Canyon extends for twelve km and rises 480 meters above the floor.

The Sierra Gorda has one of the diverse ecologies in Mexico, with one of the largest number of species of plants and animals. Species in danger of extinction include the Jaguar, Puma, the black bear, the green parrot, the Veracruz partridge, and the Humboldt butterfly, mostly due to human activities. Endangered plant species include the biznaga gigante (Echinocactus platyacanthus), the chapote (Diospyros riojae), the guayamé (Abies guatemalensis), the magnolia (Magnolia dealbata) and the peyote (Lophophora diffusa). Monarch butterflies can be found in the area as well, as they pass through to their wintering grounds on the State of Mexico-Michoacán border. The most serious is a bark beetle (Dendroctonus adjunctus) and mistletoe (Arceuthobium sp.). The drought conditions have been blamed on global climate change.Areas in Querétaro and Guanajuato have been declared as biosphere reserves. The Sierra Gorda in Hidalgo has not, but it still contains a large number of important ecosystems.