A series of magnificent waterfalls is the chief attraction along the winding mountain road between Ocosingo and Palenque. The dazzling cascades on the Río Shumulhá at Agua Azul and the exquisite falls at Misol-Há are more easily visited on a day trip from Palenque, though it is possible to visit them independently and stay nearby.
The impressive waterfalls of Agua Azul, in the Parque Nacional Agua Azul, 58km north of Ocosingo and 4km off the main road, are now a major tour-bus destination. The main cascades lie near the car park at the end of the access road, with several smaller but equally appealing rapids stretching for 1km up the river. The whole area is certainly picturesque, makes for a pleasant trip. If you come by bus (not on a tour), you’ll be dropped at the turn-off to the falls on the main highway, where you’ll probably have to walk 45 minutes downhill to the waterfall (and at least an hour’s sweaty hike back up, or use a taxi).
Villagers have set up two tolls along the road; at each, you’ll be charged a small fee. If you need to stay near the falls, simple cabañas are for rent ask at the Modulo de Información near the car park but they’re not as nice as the ones at Misol-Há. If it’s safe to walk upstream, you’ll come across a perilous-looking bridge over the river and eventually reach an impressive gorge where the Río Shumulhá explodes out of the jungle-covered mountain. At the right time of year, the river is alive with butterflies.
Higher up, the swimming is a little safer too. Although you may want to get as far from the tourist scrum as possible. A heavy federal police guard has proved a major deterrent, but you’re always safer with other people nearby. Back on the highway heading north, it’s another 64km to Palenque some tours call at Agua Clara, another waterfall 10km from Azul, which is good for swimming.
Only 18km from Palenque, Misol-Há is a much easier day trip than Agua Azul if travelling by public transport, and in some ways more pleasant, with none of the slapdash development present at its celebrated neighbour. A 25-metre waterfall provides a stunning backdrop to a pool that’s safe for swimming, and a fern-lined trail leads along a ledge behind the cascade refreshing from the spray and mist even if you don’t swim. It’s an easy 1.5km walk downhill from the road (though not so much fun in the other direction); there’s an additional charge if you arrive by car. The San Miguel ejido manages the area, offering a decent restaurant catering to tour groups, as well as inexpensive accommodation in some beautiful wooden cabañas; each cabin has a private bathroom and electricity, and some also have kitchens. The organization recommends advance reservations, especially during Mexican holiday times.
Agua Azul Waterfalls is a flora and fauna federal protected zone. Its waterfalls are formed by the rivers Otulún, Shumuljá and Tulijá, forming not very deep canyons with vertical cliffs that rise to waterfalls. They are north of Chiapas, in the municipality of Tumbalá 64 km from the city of Palenque. The water has that beautiful blue color with salts dissolved carbonates. The vegetation type of mountain forest, lush in parts covers the river, is common to see petrified trunks of fallen trees. To reach the waterfalls of Agua Azul you can do down the road from Palenque, which is 69 kilometers, or San Cristobal de las Casas, which is 200 kilometers. If you arrive in Tuxtla Gutierrez, the state capital of Chiapas, take the road to San Cristobal de las Casas and from there go in the direction of Palenque; before coming to this city, you will find the detour that takes you to this wonderful natural attraction. The travel time is 5 hours and thirty minutes, approximately.
This waterfall consists of many cataracts following one after another. The larger cataracts may be as high as 6 meters (20 feet) or so. The water is as blue as it looks in the pictures, and has a high mineral content. Where it falls on rocks or fallen trees it encases them in a thick shell-like coating of limestone. This can be seen clearly in one of the minor falls, where the part of a tree that leans against the waterfall is heavily coated while the part further away is not coated. Some fully coated log shapes can also be seen inside the fall, as well as coating on the rocks. During much of the distance the water descends in two streams, with small islands in the middle. Are approximately 44km (27 miles) beyond Misol Ha and there are cabins for rent here, too. You can swim either above or below the falls, but make sure you don’t get pulled by the current. You can see both places in the same day or stop to see them on your way to Ocosingo and San Cristóbal. Agua Azul is prettiest after 3 or 4 consecutive dry days. Check with guides or other travelers about the water quality before you decide to go. Trips to both of these places can be arranged through just about any hotel. It is a good stopping-off point en route from San Cristóbal de las Casas to Palenque, the Parque Nacional Agua Azul has some of the most beautiful waterfalls in Mexico. There are over 500 cascades in all, ranging from 3 to 30 m (10–100 ft) in height, together with a series of aquamarinecolored rock pools. It is possible to swim in some of these, which brings welcome relief from the heat and humidity of the lowlands, but again do not swim where there are signs warning of dangerous currents. The falls are best visited outside of the rainy season (Jun–Sep), during which the waters become murky.